A Surfer's Notebook

What is the essence of surfing?

This is a squirrelly question. If I asked a thousand surfers I'd get a thousand different answers... but that doesn't mean there's no right answer.

I don't think I've nailed down the exact right answer, but this framework has helped me understand surfing's "essence" a bit better.

What is "essence"?

First of all, let's try to reduce some semantic tail-chasing by agreeing on a foundational definition for this rather ambiguous word "essence".

The word "essence" comes from the Latin word "essentia," which was created specifically by Roman philosophers to translate the Greek word ousia. Both of these words are based on a simple idea: "to be."

So, at its root, the word "essence" literally means "being" or "that which is." It's the core of what something is, its very "is-ness."

The essence of something is its fundamental, unchanging nature. It is the set of qualities that a thing must have to be that thing. If you take away any of these essential qualities, the thing ceases to be what it is.

The Academic Approach

Following this definition we can academically define the essence of surfing by taking away aspects of it and asking, "Now, is this still surfing?"

For example, if we take away the waves, but keep everything else, is it still surfing? To me, this is a clear no... so waves are part of the essence of surfing. But if we only take away the leash (leg rope) is it still surfing? Yes... indeed it is!

Let's Test The "Essence" of Surfing

Given this framework, here's an essence test for surfing:

Waves: if you take away the waves, it's not surfing. It's just standing on a board. So, waves are essential.
A Surfboard: Is a surfboard essential to surfing? If we take the board away, are we still surfing? The answer is "no." So, a board is essential. This is why bodyboarding and bodysurfing are considered separate activities, even if they share the same environment.
The Ocean: What if you ride a wave on a river or a lake? Is it still surfing? Yes! River surfing is a well-known sub-genre of the sport and wave pools count too. Therefore, the ocean is not essential to surfing.
A Person: What if a board is pushed into a wave with no one on it? Is it surfing? No, it's just a board on a wave. So, a person (or rider) is essential.
Gear: What about a wetsuit or a leash? Are these essential? If you take them away, is it still surfing? Yes. Surfing was practiced for centuries without wetsuits or leashes. Therefore, gear like wetsuits, leashes, or fins are not essential. They are tools that enhance the experience and provide safety, but they are not part of the core essence of the activity.
Standing up: Some people kneel or lie down on their boards. Technically, pig-dogging could be considered kneeling (but not knee boarding). Does that mean it's not surfing? The act of "surfing" as a verb encompasses riding a wave, regardless of whether you are standing or prone. So, standing up is not essential.

After covering the biggest elements, things can start to get a little sketchy here...

The Hairy Part: Essence and the Human Experience

The more detailed we get, the more likely our academic approach will clash with lived reality. While we can use a logical process to define the universal essence of surfing—waves, a board, and a person—this definition doesn't account for the subtle, personal interpretations that make the sport so meaningful. One person may consider standing up to be essential to the act, believing it's the only true form of surfing, while another may say laying down is just as valid. Someone may consider SUP surfing to be a legitimate part of the sport, while others will absolutely refuse to call it surfing at all. This kind of disagreement is perfectly okay. It doesn't mean our core definition is wrong; it means that the way one surfer experiences or defines the essence of surfing also includes personal perception, passion, and tradition. This why almost every surfer will give you a different answer to the question.

Surfers do tend to fall into a few camps however...

For the Competitive Surfer, the essence of the sport is usually technical perfection and success within a judge's criteria for the best way to ride a wave. For the Soul Surfer, the essence is found in the connection with each wave and communion with the ocean. For the Big Wave Rider, the essence is more about pure courage and the thrill of death-defying rides. There are many more types of surfers and a multitude of combinations.

The essence of surfing exists on two planes: a universal, philosophical one that defines its core components, and a personal one that imbues it with a subjective, sometimes spiritual significance.

For me this essential component of surfing has evolved over time and can vary from session to session. I initially started surfing because I wanted to be cool and fit in with a new friend group. At that time the essence of surfing for me was about community - specifically being accepted into a social group when I didn't have one. After I got my first green wall the meaning of surfing totally flipped. I still liked the social acceptance part but I immediately understood the essence of surfing to be much deeper. I found the aspect of surfing that was thrilling, involved a flow state, and offered a "stoke" after clean rides. If you asked me what the essence of surfing was at that stage, I'd say "A fast drop and clean wall!"

Now, after over 20 years of surfing, I'd include the connection with nature that surfing provides, as an essential piece. I'd have plenty of fun at an indoor surf pool, but wouldn't be content to limit my sessions only to wave pools. Other key elements that tie into my personal definition of "surf essence" are the search for waves, the never-ending pursuit of improvement, surfing as a way to explore the world, and the humbling of the ocean.

The Hard Part: Claiming It

After years of riding waves, I've realized that the true challenge isn't just defining the essence of surfing, but having the courage to live by my own definition. It's tempting to fall in line with a specific surf tribe—to be the "soul surfer" because it sounds pure, or to be influenced by the popularity of competitive surfing. I've found it more rewarding to surf for my own reasons - when I want; how I want.

The real difficult part for me has been to discount the external opinions. Acknowledging that they are in fact opinions has been liberating. No need to take them too seriously. The competitive surfer may think riding crumblers on a noserider is a waste of time. That's okay. Their essence is just as valid for them as mine is for me. This acceptance is what allows us to celebrate the diversity of surf culture and to find some semblence of peace in the water. We are all united by the simple, beautiful act of riding a wave, and that shared experience is the foundation for our different, yet equally valid, truths.