Surf Writing: Forms, Figures & Resources

Surf writing, or "surf lit," encompasses a diverse range of forms, formats, and categories, reflecting the multifaceted nature of surfing itself—from sport and spiritual pursuit to a distinct cultural phenomenon.

Here's a breakdown:

Categories/Genres of Surf Writing

Here are the main categories surf writing can fall into:

Surf Journalism

Event Coverage: Reporting on surf competitions, tours, and major swell events.
Profiles & Interviews: Features on professional surfers, shapers, photographers, and other influential figures in the surf world.
Travelogues & Destination Features: Describing surf trips, exploring new breaks, and sharing cultural observations from surf destinations.
Gear Reviews: Critiques and recommendations for surfboards, wetsuits, and other equipment.

Cultural Commentary: Writing that examines the social, environmental, economic, and philosophical aspects of surf culture. This can range from critiques of commercialism to explorations of surfing's indigenous roots or its impact on coastal communities.

Historical Accounts: Documenting the evolution of surfing from its ancient Polynesian origins to its modern global phenomenon, often incorporating archival research, interviews, and personal anecdotes.

Personal Narrative/Memoir: As mentioned above, these are deeply personal stories that use surfing as a lens to explore broader life themes.

Poetry: Although less common, some writers express the feeling and experience of surfing through poetic forms, often evoking the rhythm of the ocean and the connection to nature.

Fiction: Stories that invent characters and plots within a surfing setting, using the sport as a backdrop for drama, mystery, or coming-of-age tales.

Technical/Scientific Writing: Explanations of wave dynamics, oceanography, surfboard design, or the biomechanics of surfing.

Forms and Formats

Regardless of the genre or category, surf writing can be published in many different formats:

Magazines (Print & Digital):

Historically the cornerstone of surf writing, magazines like Surfer, The Surfer's Journal, and Tracks have defined the genre. They blend mesmerising photography with essays, interviews, travelogues, gear reviews, and sometimes even fiction and poetry. While print versions have declined, many have transitioned to strong online presences.

Books:

Memoirs: Personal narratives of surfers' lives, often intertwining their surfing journeys with themes of self-discovery, adventure, and cultural exploration. William Finnegan's Pulitzer Prize-winning Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is a prime example.
Fiction: Novels and short stories that use surfing as a backdrop or central theme, exploring characters, relationships, and societal issues within a surf context. A well known example is Kem Nunn's Tapping The Source - the inspiration for Point Break.
Non-Fiction/Essays: Deep dives into specific aspects of surf culture, history, science, or philosophy. This can include long-form journalism, historical accounts (like Matt Warshaw's The History of Surfing), or explorations of the spiritual and psychological aspects of surfing.
Travel Guides/Atlases: Books dedicated to showcasing surf spots around the world, often featuring stunning photography and practical information for surf travelers.
Coffee Table Books: Primarily visual, these books feature high-quality surf photography with accompanying short essays or captions.
How-To/Instructional Books: Guides for improving surfing technique, understanding waves, or even building surfboards.

Online Platforms: Blogs, industry-backed websites, and independent online publications have attempted to fill the void left by declining print magazines, offering a real-time forum for surf writers.

Scripts (Documentaries and Films): At the foundation of a good movie is a well written script.

Academic Studies: Emerging as a niche, "surf studies" involves scholarly research and analysis of surf culture, history, sociology, environmental impact, and business from an academic perspective, often found in journals or university programs. As you might expect, the few schools offering surf-related degrees are in Hawaii and Australia.