The Vibe

Since I started keeping a log of all my sessions, I've realized it's not just the wave quality or quantity that gets me stoked.

I thought that if I tracked the swell, wind, tide, and crowds, then there would be a clear correlation between conditions and my level of stoke. Then I'd be able to more accurately predict when and how to forecast the best conditions and find my stoke. My tracking has helped significantly but not in the way I thought it would.

The factors feeding my stoke seem to be much more nuanced than wave quality alone.

I've had plenty of sessions in great waves and come out of the water upset, frustrated, or just otherwise disappointed. I've also paddled out despite poor conditions and found myself coming in quite happy and refreshed.

What factors am I missing? I'm not confident I've identified all of them yet, but "the vibe" is definitely one.

What is "The Vibe"?

In the most simple terms it's the general feeling I have when I'm out in a lineup - influenced heavily by the combined attitude of all the other surfers in the water.

Separate from, but certainly influencing the vibe, is the session tone.

Wave conditions set the tone and fall into two main categories:

Heavy and intense
Light and playful

Most of my stoked sessions have a light and playful tone where the waves are generally within my comfort zone - challenging sections and sets big enough to give me a hit of adrenaline are welcomed (but not required), and I'm not finding myself in survival mode as I do when it's heavy and intense: scratching through sets, fearing long hold-downs, or just generally knowing there's a decent chance of serious injury or death.

The vast majority of my sessions carry a light and playful tone in fun waves. In these sessions the vibe of the lineup can vary widely and significantly impacts the resulting stoke.

In my tracking of sessions there's a clear pattern - for those I've ranked as 'super fun' or even 'epic' the vibe in the lineup has been: cool, mellow, relaxed, playful, "super chill bro".

What's It Like to Surf in a "Good Vibe" Lineup?

Well... bad vibe lineups have high tension; Surfers are:

high strung
aggressive
competitive
greedy
inconsiderate
and ignorant or disrespectful of surf etiquette

It's every man for himself.

Chances are good that someone will be cutoff and a confrontation will ensue.

Good vibe lineups are low tension. A relaxed attitude creates a sort of social lubricant to keep the friction between surfers low; surf etiquette is respected, space is provided, and accidents can be forgiven, allowing for a rhythm to form where everyone is getting waves in an acceptable cadence.

Good vibe lineups often feel like surfing with a group of friends, even when most of the surfers in the water are strangers. When I surf with friends, finding a rotation is easy, we're happy to see each other get good waves, and light conversation passes the time between sets.

How do I tell what the vibe of the pack is?

Key Vibe Indicators

These are the telltale signs of a good or bad vibe.

The Holler

A hoot or holler of encouragement from another surfer (who is not in contention for the wave I'm about to take off on or am already surfing), is a clear sign of good vibes. You typically hear it from a surfer sitting far down the shoulder or on the inside section as they are paddling back out - someone with a good vantage point of the takeoff who is stoked to see another surfer getting a good ride.

The cheer or whistle is light and long:

"Yhheeeeewwww!"

(Long drawn out whistle)

Good vibes!

A whistle or holler by the surfer taking off, however, carries a serious tone and has a different meaning.

(Quick Whistle)

"Hey! Hey!"

When a surfer feels he has to verbally warn others down the line that he's got priority and he's going, it's a sign that tensions are high - bad vibes.

The Gift

If surfers are giving each other waves, something special is happening in the water. Either we're so far below the carrying capacity that there's no fear of missing a set wave OR the waves are so good that surfers are already stoked and they want others to get their stoke too. "Hey bro... this ones yours, I'll get the next one." Good vibes.

On the other hand, of course, is the take - if people are getting snaked, especially if it's intentional, that's a dead giveaway that the vibe in the lineup is at an all time low.

The Gab

A chatty lineup usually means surfers are feeling good and relaxed. Good vibes.

A tense lineup where surfers are jockeying for position is usually quiet. Bad vibes.

There is a nuance here when there are factions in the water. There can be an in-crowd of locals or regulars and an out crowd of visitors. The in crowd may be chatty and having fun, but the vibe for those on the outside who are getting less waves, is usually not so great.

The Density

A well-spaced pack near the takeoff zone usually indicates a relaxed lineup. Good vibes.

The tighter the pack, generally, the higher the competition and intensity. Bad vibes.

There are exceptions. Some waves simply have a very small takeoff zone and there's no choice but to scrunch up together and get close.

Factors: What Makes for a Good or Bad Vibe in The Lineup?

3 factors, like legs of a stool, are required for a stable and good vibe.

Factor 1: The Crowd

How many surfers are on the wave?

Too Many?

If there's too much pressure on a wave's capacity, then tension will rise - there are too many surfers competing for too few waves. Inevitably multiple surfers will feel they aren't getting their fill and will be stressed and upset. A surfer in this state is likely to interpret other surfer's actions negatively, overreact to miscommunications, and can make poor decisions... like thinking, "I haven't caught a wave in forever, I'm just gonna put my head down and go!"

Too Few?

Oddly, sometimes I've experienced that too small of a crowd means no vibe and although much less common than overcrowding, can actually reduce my stoke.

I still haven't fully grasped this. It's a new and strange feeling to me. But since traveling I've had a few sessions where I wished there were more surfers in the water.

If it's sharky, this is definitely the case. I simply want to improve my odds.

Also, if I'm at a new break and it's on the heavier side, I like to see some other surfers on the wave to learn how it should be approached. At a wave with a tricky paddle out, critical takeoff, abnormal sections, or reef with severe consequences... I can learn a lot, quickly, by watching others.

Factor 2: Surfer Mindset

I quite like long boarding, but don't consider myself to be a long border. Typically I'll take out the log when conditions are small and it's impractical for me to ride my short board or I have some strategic advantage by taking out the longboard. Maybe it's knee high and I could short board - wait for set waves and really have to work the few I get; or I could take out a longboard, have an advantage catching waves, be able to ride smaller waves easier, and ride them further without all the pumping and flailing.

And... there's a nice vibe that comes with longboarding.

One day, after feeling starved from the second week of small surf in Oceanside, I decided to try something new. I strapped the noserider to the top of my car and headed up to San Clemente to try something different. I kind of had this notion in the back of my mind that maybe I was really meant to be a long boarder but I had never given it a chance. I wondered if this could be my true my calling - a better way to find my stoke. And I kind of wanted to test it in someway, even though I wasn't really taking myself seriously. Would I really travel with a longboard? Could I plan my surf safaris around longboard waves? Was I going to give up the barrel for the nose ride?

At one of the many mellow crumbling and rolling waves near Churches, it was all long borders: mostly older dudes, a few styley retro guys cross stepping in their long-john wetsuits, and a much higher proportion of female surfers than I typically see back in O Side.

The prevailing style was old school. There seemed to be one VW wagon for every two Prius. A wiry tan dude with wavy blond hair down his shoulders, wearing a two piece wetsuit - the kind where the top zips in front - balanced his longboard on his head he as he walked toward the water.

I saw more than one 60's style noserider - the kind with a fat D-Fin - in impeccably good condition. Were those that well preserved? No, they must be modern replicas.

I've seen these boards and even some old-school wetsuits in a few surf shops but didn't understand why anyone would buy them. They're much more expensive than their modern counterparts and offer a fraction of the performance.

Was it just for show? Some sort of style points thing? When given the choice why would you wear or ride anything less than what provided the absolute best performance? I dismissed the thought as quickly as I always did and headed out into the water.

Being a guest at this break, I did what I always do when I'm the newbie. I paddled out tentatively and sat on the shoulder to feel out the vibe before getting closer to the peak. It didn't take long for me to realize that the vibe was mellow, and I could approach the peak without offending anyone. It was obvious that most of surfers were there daily. Many knew each other by name and were continuing conversations they had left off from previous sessions.

I joined three older dudes (maybe in their late 60's?) who were sitting further out than the main pack, waiting for the set waves that were coming about every 4 to 5 minutes. Although they didn't know me, as soon as I arrived they struck up a conversation, apparently not disturbed at all that a young buck was joining their morning routine.

Soon a small two-wave set came and I made no attempt to go. I paddled straight out to sea, making it clear that I wasn't going to contend for either. I wanted the other three guys to take their pick before I went. Two guys split the first wave, no one took the second.

I sat back up on my board.

Then, a lagging third and much bigger wave came in. I looked over at the last remaining old dude. We were the only two far enough out to be able to catch it. He was looking at me, presumably to see what I would do. I smiled and asked, "Which way you gonna go?"

The left at this break was much longer and better than the right. And, as a goofy footer was my preference.

He made no move toward the wave, "You can have this one."

"You sure?" I confirmed.

"It's all yours bud."

The session continued like this for the next two hours. I traded off waves with the old guys and we chatted and laughed together between sets.

I was tickled to find such a good vibe at a Southern California break. Was it like this every day? Is this how all long boarding spots are? It felt like I had gone back in time to the golden age - a dream version of Southern California surfing - when there were more waves than surfers and the default vibe was much more relaxed and cool than the cut-throat competition that now plagued many spots on a daily basis.

And then it made more sense.

The old school style, from the cars to wetsuits and boards, was an ode to a better time when the Southern California surf scene had its golden years. Waves were abundant, surfers had free time, and you could get stoned for a nickel!

Whether this is true or just a romanticized ideal, I don't know. But in the context of the modern surf scene where we try to squeeze in a few waves amongst the crowds before work, it sure does seem nice.

Maybe I really should be a long border. At least the pace and mentality are certainly a better match for me.

Factor 3: The Mesh

How well does this group of strangers, all out to catch a few good waves mesh?

When surfers have a similar skill level... or perhaps are just all good enough to know how the system works... things flow nicely; A rotation develops, surfers line up and take the waves as they come, and generally accept their luck when a particularly good or bad set wave comes in when it's their turn to go.

But it only takes one bad apple to ruin the bunch.

Bad apples make one or more of these violations...

chandeliering waves from the shoulder
dropping in on others
ditching their board
disregarding the priority queue
floundering on the inside right where your bottom turn should be

Sometimes as few as one unknowledgeable surfer can cause the whole system to break down. First one surfer gets upset about a ruined wave. He starts to grumble or yells at the kook who paddled into his line instead of heading into the whitewater to leave the rider a clear path. The tension of the group rises a bit feeling his anxiety and concerned the novice might ruin their next wave. The level of competition rises from "It's cool... you go" to "Hey, I'm going". Tension rises another notch. If it isn't released and the vibe reset, a negative feedback loop can ensue, devolving the session into a lurching and frustrating struggle.

At a mellow wave or beach break, we can usually work around one kook - maybe even 3-4. But at a point break or reef, where the takeoff zone is more confined and the margin for error is smaller, the vibe is more easily harshened.

I've had countless sessions that have started out with a great vibe but been disrupted...

The Vibe Shift

Just like in a baseball game where one error in the infield gives up a base and starts a full-scale meltdown costing the team the game, one unfortunate event in the lineup can cause a vibe shift that degrades the entire session. But unlike unforced errors in team sports, I can often see a vibe shift coming before it happens.

When I'm in a group that's in a rhythm, trading off waves, and I see another group of surfers start paddling out, I get anxious. Are they going to be able to fit into the rotation? Or will they throw a wrench into everything? I start looking for signs to see what the future has in store. What kind of boards are they riding? How are they paddling? How old are they?

If it's a mob of groms the session's over. I start looking for my last wave.

If it's a couple locals when I'm at a destination break, I know at a minimum my wave count is about to drop drastically. In certain regions where sets are few and far between, or where locals get some sick pleasure in cutting off visitors, it's often better to cut my losses and head in.

If someone paddles out on a soft top, I generally don't worry too much - most of time they're on the inside and the lineup can work around them.

If a couple guys paddle out on mid lengths... it's a toss up. They're either really good or really average - either one could be bad news for me depending on how they fit in.

When the vibe is good and everyone's getting stoked, it's a special occasion and I try to savor it while I can. Generally the other surfers know it too and will usually acknowledge it.

"Wow, this is nice isn't it?!"

Another surfer will help remind them to savor the moment,

"Yaaaa, enjoy it while you can, the word will spread fast" or "The rest aren't far behind" - alluding to the common fear, that if the conditions are good, it won't last long - other surfers will soon find out and be on it.

In between waves, we glance toward the shoreline to see if anyone else is coming. Inevitably when a few surfers pull up and start waxing their boards, the alarm will sound,

"Well, it was fun while it lasted wasn't it boys?"

Or,

"Party's over!"

Or in the case of an early morning session when those late to rise finally start pulling up,

"Guess it's about time for breakfast, huh?"

Final Thoughts

As far as I know, there's no vibe forecast. I guess this surprise element is part of what makes special sessions stand out.

And maybe getting old won't be so bad. I won't need so many waves to get my stoke so I can tolerate more crowds - sit further out on a board with more volume and wait for the super sets. I could even change over to a longboard, have more fun and get more stoked at a chill wave with a mellow crowd.

At a minimum I'll be able to talk about how good we had it back in the old days, the 2010's and 2020's.